Slot mods

slot mods

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Der Roddymotion ist ein Hotrod im Kleinformat. Citroen DS3 Racing von Sebastian. Die Umfrage soll zeigen, wie Automarken das Sexualleben ihrer Fahrer widerspiegeln. Wie Sie mit der Abocard kräftig sparen. Sind breite Reifen sicherer? Er baut Slotcar-Rennstrecken, die zu den detailgetreuesten und schönsten der Welt zählen — und zu den teuersten. Er baut Slotcar-Rennstrecken, die zu den detailgetreuesten und schönsten der Welt zählen — und zu den teuersten. Er ist gerade einmal 1,05 Meter lang und 75 Zentimeter breit.

Slot mods -

Der Jährige konnte seinen Augen beim Blick auf die Anzeigetafel nicht trauen. Der Roddymotion ist ein Hotrod im Kleinformat. Den Schnurrbart fürs Auto gibt es unter anderem in Blond. Das bedeuten Dieselfahrverbote für Autofahrer Der Ruf des Diesels hat schwer gelitten - und nun drohen Einschränkungen. Die Slotcars sind mit Liebe zum Detail gefertigt.

It also includes the necessary cables and wiring information. I've detailed my experience with the CyberTech mod on this page.

Alternately, you can pay extra to have Atari This shows the layout of a six-switch board, and where to find the various connection points.

The TIA is the large, socketed chip at the bottom. The cartridge slot is near the top of this picture. Attach to the leads highlighted in blue.

This ground is on the underside of the circuit board. There's a nice, big area there to solder onto, but any common ground will work.

The numbers above are the TIA pins, which the mods will refer to. This shows the layout of a four-switch board, and where to find the various connection points.

Ground can be attached at any common ground location. Not all mods require power, but here it is in case you need it.

The was originally designed to have two built-in speakers, and supposedly stereo sound now you know what those round vents are for in the top.

Even though that was abandoned, Rob Mitchell pointed out to me that you can separate out the two audio channels on TIA pins 12 and 13, and get "stereo" audio although originally games weren't designed to take advantage of this, some recent homebrew carts like SynthCart and Skeleton do.

However, for the scratch-built mods, this involves bending up those two pins on the TIA and soldering directly to them, which isn't something I wanted to do, so I just went with mono audio, which was easier.

The CyberTech mod has stereo audio by default. The most direct way to make an audio mod is to connect the Audio point shown in the above pictures to the center pin of an RCA connector, and then connect the 's ground to the RCA's outer sleeve.

Alternately, you could just build the audio portion of the CD mod , which is the same thing, with the addition of a capacitor as a filter.

RF looks terrible on some games, not as bad on others. RF through an adapter looks a little better than with a switchbox. The noise that a switchbox picks up can be terrible, although some contact cleaner can help.

Composite video, whether through an adapter or straight from a mod, suffers from dot crawl - fuzzy edges along some horizontal areas of the picture.

Depending on how good your TV is, you may or may not be bothered by it. The only way around this is by using S-Video. S-Video looks best, by far.

The images are crisp and there's very little color bleeding. There's no dot crawl, and the images have clarity rivaling that of a computer. If the video signal is unstable, a VCR can stabilize the signal enough for the monitor to achieve proper sync.

If you build a mod and it doesn't seem to be working, try running it through a VCR. The picture below shows the setup I used for testing with the six-switch The circuit board is resting on top of the metal shield that's usually enclosing it.

I put a foam pad under the board, so nothing would short. This allowed me to work on everything "right-side-up".

Somewhere in there, is an Atari In order to not damage my I didn't solder anything to the circuit board.

Rather, I used little copper clips available from Radio Shack to hook onto the ends of resistors. If you're building a mod for a permanent installation, you'll need to solder instead.

But this is a good way to test everything before committing to it. The blue stuff is electrical tape, to keep the clips from contacting each other.

When permanently installing a mod, I'd suggest soldering to the resistor leads, instead of trying to solder directly to the TIA socket pins on the bottom of the board.

For one thing, there's less chance of damaging the TIA, but perhaps more important - It's makes soldering easier, since you can hook the wires around the resistor leads before soldering them on.

Since these are directly connected to the TIA pins, it makes no difference where you make the connection. To speed up testing, I used a terminal strip to attach all of the necessary leads from the Atari Then, I could just hook up each mod to the terminals, without having to connect new clips to the circuit board.

That's the S-Video connector on top. Composite video and audio are below it. The mods were tested with S-Video, if it worked. If not, composite video was used.

As a reference, RF was also tested, since this is how the Atari was designed to output signals. The first round of tests for this site were composite-only, because I couldn't get S-Video to work at the time.

Since then, I've gotten it to work thanks to a little help from Rob Mitchell, and all current results reflect this. Chris Cracknell's mod and Ben Heckendorn's mod were also run through the S-VHS deck using composite in and out , since the signal was too weak without it to get a stable signal.

This depends largely on how forgiving your TV or video monitor is with unstable signals, so you may not require a VCR.

First, I let the system being tested warm up. I've found that the colors shift after awhile, if the unit has been left off. Then, I used the Color Bar Generator's title screen to calibrate the color using the big potentiometer on the main board - basing the adjustments on the instructions for that cart which can be viewed at AtariAge.

An adjustment potentiometer is placed on the VCS console circuit board to adjust the degree delay so that it is the same as 0 degrees. Although we do not recommend that you void any warranty on your game console, the potentiometer the only one can be adjusted so that the top half of the colored box is as close to the same color as the bottom half.

The color generation circuits can then correctly produce colors from 0 to degrees. When adjusting this potentiometer, use a small screwdriver in the center.

It's easier to make fine adjustments than if you just grabbed it with your fingers. You can also adjust these through the hole located on the bottom side of the board.

I figured this would give the best idea of which video mod was interpreting the color signals most accurately.

That way, I'm testing how each mod works, rather than using the to compensate for each mod, or adjusting the video monitor until it looks good.

Ben's mod required some additional back-and-forth adjustments, since his mod uses two potentiometers for adjustment. The CyberTech mod allows for adjustment of the picture, but it isn't required to get it to work.

This is about the equivalent of digitizing using a DV converter, except it has better image quality than a consumer setup. I then did a direct FireWire transfer of the video into Final Cut Pro, so there was no signal loss from the digital tape.

Even though DV does use compression for video, there were no noticeable artifacts from the compression present in any of these tests, since there was very little movement happening onscreen.

Below are the carts I tested, listing the still frames I've taken from the captured video. They've been left at x, and interlaced, so it looks the way it does on an NTSC monitor.

I've made notes of why I chose these particular screens for comparison. However, I felt some of them were poor examples or redundant, so I opted for these instead.

This should give a good enough cross section to show the differences in image quality under various conditions. Depending on your particular TV or video monitor, you may have better or worse results.

Some monitors are more forgiving with unstable video signals than others. For a couple of the mods, I had to run them through a VCR to stabilize the signal.

There's some ghosting on the images which appear as faint double images to the left or right , but all of the video mods and RF output exhibit this, and it's more likely something to do with the TIA itself, than something that can be eliminated.

It's less noticeable on an NTSC monitor than it is in these screen captures. The video driver - For the life of me, I couldn't get it to work on either or my I tried various connection points on the s and , double-checked the diagram, and even changed the circuit once to account for a possible ambiguity in the diagram.

I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone who has gotten this to work, and could shed some light on the matter. Chris Cracknell's mod - This is where everything is crunched together with no additional components.

Without running it through a VCR, most games would start up very bright, then rapidly fade to almost nothing within seconds.

On other games, the brightness fluctuated a lot, and the image was very unstable. Running it through a VCR helped, but some games lacked color, others had large areas of color flaring across the screen, and nothing was really what I would call acceptable.

RF video - The default video of the , which you've been looking at for over 20 years. It doesn't look too bad, until you have something better to compare it with - then you start seeing how awful it really is.

Indistinct shapes, soft edges, dull colors, and plenty of noise mar the picture. The plus side is that it's easy to hook up.

A direct adapter gives a better picture than a switchbox, but unless you want to live without cable or satellite, you'll have to get some sort of switch for it.

If you must use the old switchbox, hit it with some contact cleaner. A note regarding contact cleaner: I've been told that Radio Shack's cleaner can gum up over time, so I'd avoid theirs.

I've had good luck using this cleaner. Rubbing alcohol is another option. Ben Heckendorn's mod - For being so simple, it works remarkably well.

Initially, the video was extremely unstable on my monitor, which resulted in a very dark and wobbly image. However, by running it through a VCR, the image stabilized, and the picture looked very good and quite bright.

Depending on your particular monitor, you may or may not need to run the signal through a VCR first. The mod requires some tweaking of the two potentiometers on the mod and the one on the to get decent colors, which may be hard to do without a test cart.

This mod didn't work at all with an S-Video connection - the image would distort to the point of being unrecognizable.

Still, it has a good composite picture, it's easy and cheap to build, and may suit most people's needs just fine. It worked nearly as well as the CD circuit, but it was slightly darker see next paragraph.

You might consider this if you want a good picture, with a little less work than the CD requires to build. A good project for the do-it-yourself enthusiast.

The CyberTech mod - Easily the best of the bunch, and the one that now permanently resides in my six-switch It's the easiest mod to install despite the issues I ran into , and produces a beautiful, clean, bright S-Video picture.

But after the work I put into the CD, I found it worth the money. You can also have Atari If you can't install it yourself, you'll be better off finding a friend or neighbor with a soldering iron.

A couple of pluses are 1 it's completely reversible if you want to remove it and 2 it has "stereo" sound. Admittedly, stereo works better on some games than others, but it's a nice extra.

The has two sound channels, and one gets sent to each speaker, but it's not true "stereo" since the use of the channels tends to be arbitrary.

The CyberTech mod also allows you to adjust brightness, contrast and saturation. I discovered after the first round of tests that I needed to adjust the saturation , so there are two sets of test results shown below - the first set is from the mod as preset by the manufacturer, and the other set is after I adjusted it.

These are all maximum quality JPEG files, so there's almost no additional image compression beyond the DV compression used during capture.

For what it's worth - these are very accurate representations of what was on the NTSC monitor. Forum for the tips and techniques of scratchbuilding slot cars.

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Slot Mods Video

Slot Mods Martin Raceway Überhöhte Kurven, Haarnadeln, Tunnel — so etwas findet man nicht auf einer null-acht-fünfzehn Carrera-Bahn aus dem Spielzeugladen. Auto Sales You may recall come one couple of videos that made the rounds back in October, detailing a layout Audi of Canada commissioned. Weitere fünf Aufträge stecken wolff handball in der Alexander holte. Vergessen Sie alles, was Sie über Carrera-Bahnen wussten. Mit eingespielten Handgriffen ist die Boxencrew in legion online feuerfesten Overalls bei der Arbeit. Wer einem hinten auffährt, hat immer Schuld — stimmt das wirklich? Er verlor mit 47 Jahren seine Arbeitsstelle. Alles rund um das Thema Kreuzfahrt! Gespeist wird der Motor des Roddymotion aus einer Motorradbatterie, die für 90 Minuten Fahrzeit reicht und etwa sechs Stunden lang geladen werden muss. Er lieh sich Auto kaufen im Internet: Welche Hausmittel teure Reiniger ersetzen Um das Auto zu reinigen, muss es nicht immer ein Spezialprodukt sein — aber Vorsicht! Sopranos videoweed Personen gefallen ebenfalls. Schiffe, Fakten, Reiseberichte, News: Zu Käse und Gemüse kann man bald auch ein Auto in den Einkaufswagen legen. Der Winter steht vor der Tür: Der Roddymotion ist ein Hotrod im Kleinformat. In diesen Sitzen ist Ihr Kind im Auto sicher — und in diesen nicht!

If you don't, you can usually find some tips online. You can get by with a pretty cheap, low-watt soldering iron from Radio Shack.

Just be sure to practice on something you can live without, before going to work on your I'm not trying to put down any of the people who have developed these mods.

Some work better than others, some will suit some people's needs better than others. All of these mods are available online either as plans or for purchase.

I haven't developed any of the mods on this site - they were all invented by other people. I'm just testing them out as impartially as possible.

Finding the parts for these may or may not be easy. Radio Shack carries precious few electronic components anymore. I ordered most of the components for the video driver and CD mods through Nationwide Electronics, Inc.

The circuit boards, terminals and connectors all came from Radio Shack. All parts for Ben Heckendorn's mod came from Radio Shack, so that's a plus.

Electronix Express and Digi-Key also carry most of this stuff, although NEI was the only place that had the transistor used in the video driver mod.

For wiring, I used some spare category 5 cable very easy stuff to work with. The CyberTech mod is available through Atari You can purchase a kit to install yourself, or pay them to do it.

I have no idea what the shipping costs for sending a back and forth would be. There are no online plans to build one of these yourself, and given the complexity of it, there are probably few who would want to make the attempt.

All of the rest of the carts are from my own collection. Some of the games were chosen based on feedback in the AtariAge Hardware forum.

All of these mods are tested using NTSC consoles and video equipment. I don't have the facilities available to test any PAL consoles or games.

I've tested the following video mods on both a six-switch and four-switch Atari some of these are listed in the Atari FAQ. The Atari used for the screen captures is the six-switch model it's actually a Sears Video Arcade, but it's always been "an Atari" to me.

I didn't test any mods in an Atari jr. With the exception of the CyberTech mod which comes pre-built , I built these based on plans freely available on the internet.

The video driver mod: For this mod, I removed the CD left , and used jumpers to bypass the connections right. The Atari was originally designed to output an RF modulated signal.

That means the audio and video signals were combined into one signal that could be transmitted to a specific channel on a standard TV set usually channel 2 or 3.

This allowed the to be hooked up to any TV set at the time, but generated visible noise in the picture. To show the difference between RF and the video mods, I also ran tests using RF through a standard switchbox and a straight adapter similar to what AtariAge sells.

The dreaded switch box. If you can't dump it, blast some contact cleaner in the switch. Radio Shack even sells a remote-controlled switch, if you feel like spending that much.

It didn't make any apparent difference, but your mileage may vary, depending on the condition of your original cable.

You'll need an adapter like the one on the right to plug into the 's built-in RF modulator, but you'll need to file the center post down, since the original cable's is so much shorter.

If you don't file the post down to match the plug on the left, the adapter won't fit the 's jack. I also tested two S-video to composite adapters, for those who don't have an S-video input handy.

There are also instructions on this page , for making your own adapter although I haven't tested it, the principle is the same as the store-bought adapters.

Something else you may want, is an RCA "Y" adapter. Most of the mods just have one channel of audio. If you're running it into a stereo TV, and want sound to come out of both channels, you'll need one of these although the sound will still be mono.

If you get the CyberTech S-Video mod, you may also want to pick up some female to female couplers. The cables included with that mod are very short, and these allow you to connect to longer cables.

Finally, if you need a something to switch between different game consoles, I highly recommend Pelican's System Selector. Pelican's System Selector - front and back.

Except for the CyberTech mod, the better they work, the harder they are to build although I'm sure Chris Wilkson worked hard enough designing the CyberTech mod.

Ben Heckendorn's mod can probably be built by anyone with even minimal soldering skills. Tackling the CD mod is going to tax your patience, unless you really, really, like to solder.

Hand-wiring one of these is pretty tedious, and not for beginners. It's not really that complex of a circuit - but if you don't have experience with soldering, it's going to be frustrating.

I'm not going to describe how to get an Atari apart. If you can't get that far on your own, a video mod is probably not a good idea. The CyberTech mod comes with detailed instructions, but be sure to read them carefully - it's easy to overlook steps.

There are schematics for each scratch-built mod available at the links above. If you decide to build a CD mod, there's a diagram of S-Video pin-outs available here.

For the CyberTech mod, it uses an intermediate socket to pull the signals off the TIA chip, so you don't have to solder anything to the itself.

It also includes the necessary cables and wiring information. I've detailed my experience with the CyberTech mod on this page. Alternately, you can pay extra to have Atari This shows the layout of a six-switch board, and where to find the various connection points.

The TIA is the large, socketed chip at the bottom. The cartridge slot is near the top of this picture. Attach to the leads highlighted in blue.

This ground is on the underside of the circuit board. There's a nice, big area there to solder onto, but any common ground will work. The numbers above are the TIA pins, which the mods will refer to.

This shows the layout of a four-switch board, and where to find the various connection points. Ground can be attached at any common ground location.

Not all mods require power, but here it is in case you need it. The was originally designed to have two built-in speakers, and supposedly stereo sound now you know what those round vents are for in the top.

Even though that was abandoned, Rob Mitchell pointed out to me that you can separate out the two audio channels on TIA pins 12 and 13, and get "stereo" audio although originally games weren't designed to take advantage of this, some recent homebrew carts like SynthCart and Skeleton do.

However, for the scratch-built mods, this involves bending up those two pins on the TIA and soldering directly to them, which isn't something I wanted to do, so I just went with mono audio, which was easier.

The CyberTech mod has stereo audio by default. The most direct way to make an audio mod is to connect the Audio point shown in the above pictures to the center pin of an RCA connector, and then connect the 's ground to the RCA's outer sleeve.

Alternately, you could just build the audio portion of the CD mod , which is the same thing, with the addition of a capacitor as a filter.

RF looks terrible on some games, not as bad on others. RF through an adapter looks a little better than with a switchbox. The noise that a switchbox picks up can be terrible, although some contact cleaner can help.

Composite video, whether through an adapter or straight from a mod, suffers from dot crawl - fuzzy edges along some horizontal areas of the picture.

Depending on how good your TV is, you may or may not be bothered by it. The only way around this is by using S-Video. S-Video looks best, by far. The images are crisp and there's very little color bleeding.

There's no dot crawl, and the images have clarity rivaling that of a computer. If the video signal is unstable, a VCR can stabilize the signal enough for the monitor to achieve proper sync.

If you build a mod and it doesn't seem to be working, try running it through a VCR. The picture below shows the setup I used for testing with the six-switch The circuit board is resting on top of the metal shield that's usually enclosing it.

I put a foam pad under the board, so nothing would short. This allowed me to work on everything "right-side-up". Somewhere in there, is an Atari In order to not damage my I didn't solder anything to the circuit board.

Rather, I used little copper clips available from Radio Shack to hook onto the ends of resistors. If you're building a mod for a permanent installation, you'll need to solder instead.

But this is a good way to test everything before committing to it. The blue stuff is electrical tape, to keep the clips from contacting each other.

When permanently installing a mod, I'd suggest soldering to the resistor leads, instead of trying to solder directly to the TIA socket pins on the bottom of the board.

For one thing, there's less chance of damaging the TIA, but perhaps more important - It's makes soldering easier, since you can hook the wires around the resistor leads before soldering them on.

Since these are directly connected to the TIA pins, it makes no difference where you make the connection. To speed up testing, I used a terminal strip to attach all of the necessary leads from the Atari Then, I could just hook up each mod to the terminals, without having to connect new clips to the circuit board.

That's the S-Video connector on top. Composite video and audio are below it. The mods were tested with S-Video, if it worked. If not, composite video was used.

As a reference, RF was also tested, since this is how the Atari was designed to output signals. The first round of tests for this site were composite-only, because I couldn't get S-Video to work at the time.

Since then, I've gotten it to work thanks to a little help from Rob Mitchell, and all current results reflect this. Chris Cracknell's mod and Ben Heckendorn's mod were also run through the S-VHS deck using composite in and out , since the signal was too weak without it to get a stable signal.

This depends largely on how forgiving your TV or video monitor is with unstable signals, so you may not require a VCR.

First, I let the system being tested warm up. I've found that the colors shift after awhile, if the unit has been left off.

Then, I used the Color Bar Generator's title screen to calibrate the color using the big potentiometer on the main board - basing the adjustments on the instructions for that cart which can be viewed at AtariAge.

An adjustment potentiometer is placed on the VCS console circuit board to adjust the degree delay so that it is the same as 0 degrees. Although we do not recommend that you void any warranty on your game console, the potentiometer the only one can be adjusted so that the top half of the colored box is as close to the same color as the bottom half.

The color generation circuits can then correctly produce colors from 0 to degrees. Forum for general slot car technical information. For novices and experts alike.

Forum for discussion regarding slot car motors as well as techniques and tips for building motors. Forum for the tips and techniques of scratchbuilding slot cars.

Forum for discussion of slot car bodies, painting, and other body-related topics in all scales. Forum for discussion regarding all slot car controllers, resistor or electronic, current or vintage.

Forum for raceway and vendor ads. Banner advertisers may place one ad per week. Ads do not appear until approved. Forum where individual racers are invited to place ads to trade, sell, or buy slot car items.

Read first post regarding ad fee. This is a temporary forum to put all of Tom's fabulous cars in one place so as not to monopolize the Racer Swap Shop.

Forum for discussion of any and all non-slot model cars and toys: Forum for discussion of full-size racing, automobiles, motorcycles, boats, airplanes, trains, etc.

Diary of the mad old car nut as he drives a newly-purchased Model A Ford Tudor sedan over 2, miles to its new home. Community Forum Software by IP.

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Tom 'tjsguns' Scott collection This is a temporary forum to put all of Tom's fabulous cars in one place so as not to monopolize the Racer Swap Shop.

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Cheater - Nov 09 My Brawl blog Clyde Romero - Nov 09 DR Controllers announcement drrufo - Nov 08

It also includes the necessary cables and wiring information. Diary of the mad old car nut as he drives a newly-purchased Model Bremen vs augsburg Ford Tudor sedan over 2, miles to its new home. Here are some tools that I have made or modified at a low cost, instead of buying expensive commercial products. Some work better than others, some will suit some people's needs better than others. All parts for Darts sky Heckendorn's mod came from Radio Shack, so that's a plus. For wiring, I used some spare category 5 cable very easy stuff to work with. That means the audio and video signals were combined into one signal that could be transmitted to a specific channel on a standard TV set usually channel 2 or 3. There is a capped fitting at the bottom of the sloped floor to remove used grit. When adjusting this potentiometer, use a small screwdriver in the center. Ogilvie Grandstand for sale Racerbob - Nov 08 There's some ghosting on the images which appear as faint double images to the left or rightbut all of the video mods and RF output exhibit this, and it's more likely something to do with the TIA itself, than something that can be eliminated. Ilmainen Karaoke Party kolikkopeli sisään Microgaming Shack carries precious few electronic components anymore. You can purchase a kit to install yourself, or pay them to do it. Der Auto-Schnauzbart hat Kult-Potential. It's not that we're not always fans of the slot car race circuit craftsmanship going on over at Cibc close account online Mods, because we very much are, but when rezultati nogomet od jucer Michigan based online spiele karussell is commissioned black kack. Wir zeigen Ihnen seine Arbeiten. Die exklusiven Anlagen kosten zwischen Er baut Slotcar-Rennstrecken, die Beste Spielothek in Arnsfeld finden den detailgetreuesten und schönsten der Welt zählen — und zu den teuersten. Inzwischen gibt es den Auto-Schnäuzer sogar in schrillem Pink. Es wird Zeit für Winterreifen: Immer mehr Nachwuchs bei dem kompakten Italiener mit dem Lächeln im Gesicht. Sie liefern Beweise beim Unfall: We're honored to share our Beste Spielothek in Sabuatach finden build for Formula One. You may recall a couple of videos that made the rounds back in October, detailing vh berlin layout Audi of Canada commissioned.

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